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Check that the mode is correct and that the sun symbol ☀ is showing on the screen of the remote, If it does not display the heat mode it will not be able to heat the room.
Please note that all you are doing by setting 30° degrees on the remote is the room temperature you require. It does not mean that hotter air is coming from the unit. The temperature you set on the remote is purely to regulate the required temperature in the room, the temperature off the coil (inside the unit) is a set temperature.
Check the display on the remote displays an ❆ symbol, if it is in the wrong mode, it will not be able to cool.
Please note that all you are doing by setting 16&DEG; degrees on the remote is the room temperature you require. It does not mean that colder air is coming from the unit. The temperature you set on the remote is purely to regulate the required temperature in the room, the temperature off the coil is a set temperature.
Every so often the unit cycles in order to get the ice build-up to melt on the outdoor/condenser. Whilst it does this, it is no longer providing cooling and therefore you may feel the air is moderate. The unit needs to cycle in order to maintain its effectiveness and give the coils unhindered access to ambient conditions in order to work more effectively.
If the unit does this on a continuous basis, i.e. no cooling at all! you will need to call a technician in order to test the unit and assess the fault
More than likely the compressor has failed, the reason it trips only a few seconds after you have switched the unit on, is due to the fact that the compressor usually has a delay before it kicks in. This is usually when it the effects are seen on your DB.
Call a technician, more than likely it is compressor failure or requires a capacitor replacement on fixed speed type units.
A fixed speed unit has a compressor that runs at a fixed speed. It switches on and off each time it is 2° above and below the set temperature (that you have selected on the remote). It draws a lot of start up current each time it switches on it draws a surge of power to get it going.
An inverter has a ‘soft start’ compressor and slowly ramps up until it gets the room to your selected temperature, once it achieves the ‘set point’ on your remote, it reduces current to the compressor in order to maintain that temperature. It avoids the continuous stop/start of a fixed speed compressor and in this way saves between 18% to 35% on electricity usage (depending on make, usage and correct sizing) of a conventional fixed speed compressor.
If your unit was properly installed, it should not require re-gassing. This is a widely accepted fallacy in the industry. The piping that runs in the unit should be a sealed system, the gas in the system has 2 purposes, to lubricate the compressor and to transfer heat from indoor to outdoor or vice-versa.
Your unit(s) should, however, be serviced at least once to twice a year in a moderate residential environment. This will ensure that the unit operates optimally throughout its life cycle and will ensure its longevity. Filters, coils, amperage, gas charge should be a part of this service.
In environments where the units are used more extensively used and are more exposed to elements such as corrosive coastal air, next to highways where there is more grit in the air and pollution, possibly in factory areas with heavy pollution, these units will require shorter and more intensive service periods.
A well-structured SLA should cover both the aircon technician and the customer in these circumstances.
Compared to a heater with an element of some sort, an aircon is way more efficient as it is designed to heat/cool a certain area whereas standard heaters tend to only heat the immediate area and take longer to have an effect.
Most aircons will give you 3kw of output for every 1kw of input which is quite efficient. The kw rating on an aircon is hourly so in comparison to a fridge, yes it will be more expensive to run.
DO NOT keep on switching the unit back on again.
The unit is switching itself off in order to protect the compressor. It is trying to tell you that something is wrong, this normally happens when the compressor is over-heating and the continual forcing the unit on WILL irreparably damage the compressor and be more expensive to repair/replace than if it is seen to when the fault is first picked up. There will usually be an error code displayed on most units either on the remote, or on the unit itself.
Your operating manual should also be able to give you some guidelines. More often that not, the original problem is minor, like a refrigerant leak that needs sealing and re-filling.
The aircon works by moving heat from one place to another. The colder it is outside, the longer it takes for the unit to find warmth in the air and transfer it inside the room. Most aircons will have an operating range indicated in the operation manual the is usually about -5°C but this varies from each manufacturer. Once the unit has warmed the room up, it will maintain the heat quite well, it may just take longer to get there depending on ambient conditions!
There is a drain pan in the unit, this is tilted slightly towards a drain point on the pan. The dirt that collects in the unit sometimes blocks the pipe causing the condensate moisture from the coils to build up and over flow from the pan causing this leak.
The quick solution (for a short drain pipe) is to place your mouth over the exit pipe and blow into the pipe, this should dislodge the sediment and allow flowing again. This will not work when multiple unit’s drains are connected to a common drain as the pressure will follow the path of least resistance.
An extended drain pipe may require a high pressure burst from a pressure washer/hose to dislodge the blockage. This also may cause water spray on the indoor side of the unit and the unit should be covered with a towel/plastic to avoid this.
Units that are serviced regularly usually do not have this problem, you may also find that units that are not serviced often enough may block as when they are cleaned, the large amount of dirt dislodged at once now cannot flow through the drain and causes the outflow pipe to dam up. This is not the fault of the service agent, but irregular service intervals.
Units fitted with condensate pumps may have to look at the pump no longer working, this is possibly the float in the pump.
When in doubt call an approved technician.